Miss me much? I’ve just returned from a few days adventuring in Mozambique… it wasn’t quite the white-sand-waving-palms-cocktails-on-tap holiday I had anticipated (more the knee-deep-lagoon-i-no-speaka-da-english holiday)…
Fortunately the food was all it was cracked up to be – the chicken at Piri-Piri in the capital, Maputo, more than made up for the be-mirrored “guest house” that ripped us off and whose kitchen was directly opposite an ablution block (the breakfast omelet tasted suspiciously like the fish we had observed being fried the previous night).
If ever you find yourself in Bilene, make haste to Sonia’s prawns; ignore the state of the dishcloths and sip on a large icy-cold 2M beer while Sonia prepares an absolute feast for you. She opened up shop for just two of us, and got the prawns fresh from her neighbouring “fishmongers”.
There’s also the ubiquitous cashew-nut and passion-fruit sellers – everywhere. And when you tell a local cashew-nut seller that you currently have sufficient stock and that you may purchase from him tomorrow, you better believe it that he will be there tomorrow lying in wait with vast quantities of cashew-nuts in the gossamer-thin shopping bags that they use there. You will see cashews in those same bags strung up from trees and poles all along the EN1 (as well as, interestingly, large flapping panties at one particular stall). You will wish to never see another cashew as long as you live.
Unless you are flying to one of those cookie-cutter same-the-world-over resorts, Mozambique is not for the faint-hearted. A trip out there takes a fair amount of pre-planning and I would definitely recommend to follow the rules, avoid Maputo and make a plan to get to Sonia’s Prawns.
PS: Also, arm yourself with vast quantities of cold 2M beers, and if it’s your thing, the super-cheap Tipo Tinto rum – it makes any chaos significantly more tolerable ;-).